2013 Hyundai Elantra Turn Signal Problems: Fix Every Issue + Real Repair Costs

Your left turn signal blinks twice as fast as normal, or your right one just stopped working altogether. After reviewing thousands of posts from 2013 Elantra owners, the good news is clear: most of these problems cost under $30 and take 15 minutes to fix yourself.

Here’s what’s usually happening and what it’ll actually cost you. This guide covers every common turn signal issue on the 2013 Elantra, walks you through diagnosis in order of cost, and tells you exactly when it’s worth DIYing versus calling a mechanic.

You’ll learn what causes rapid blinking, why front signals fail when headlights are on, how to test if it’s the bulb or socket, and whether you need professional help. Let’s fix this.

Rapid Blinking or Hyperflashing Turn Signals

Your turn signal blinks at double speed; maybe triple. This is your car’s way of saying “I think this bulb is burned out,” even if it’s not always true. Hyperflashing happens because the electrical circuit can’t complete properly, so the relay cycles faster to alert you.

The fix is usually simple: bad bulb holder contacts, wrong bulb type, or a corroded socket. Most of the time, you’ll clean something, reseat a bulb, or spend $20 and have it fixed before lunch.

-Quick Fix: Contact Cleaning (Do This First)

Remove the signal bulb. Look at the metal contacts inside the socket, they should shine. If they’re dull, discolored, or crusty, grab a dry cloth or electrical contact cleaner spray ($5-10 at any auto parts store) and clean both the bulb and socket contacts.

Reseat the bulb firmly until you feel it click. Turn on your headlights and test the signal. If that fixes it, you’re done and spent $0-10. This works 30% of the time and takes 10 minutes.

-Replace the Bulb (Correct Type Matters)

Your 2013 Elantra needs a 2357A bulb in the front, not 1157A. This is a huge problem. Many owners grab 1157A thinking it’s universal, but it has different resistance. Wrong bulb type = relay malfunction = hyperflashing. Buy the correct 2357A bulbs ($5-8 each) and swap them out. Takes 5 minutes per side once you know what to buy.

Check both the front and rear bulbs on the affected side. Front and rear might have different types, so look at what’s actually in there before buying.

-Test the Flasher Relay (If Bulb Didn’t Work)

If you replaced the bulb and it still hyperflashes on both sides, the flasher relay might be cycling too fast. Listen under the steering column for a clicking sound when you activate the signal, that’s the relay. No click means either the relay is dead or power isn’t reaching it.

A new relay costs $20-40 and takes 10-15 minutes to swap if you can find it (varies by trim). If replacing the relay doesn’t work, socket corrosion is likely the real culprit.

Turn Signal Not Working (Complete Failure)

Nothing happens. You flip the stalk and the dashboard arrow doesn’t light up, or it lights up but the actual bulb doesn’t glow. This is a bigger problem than hyperflashing because it could be the bulb, fuse, socket, wiring, or switch.

Here’s the diagnostic order that saves you money: test in order of cost. Start with the fuse ($0-3 to replace), move to the bulb ($5-10), then socket ($20-40), then wiring ($100+). Stop as soon as you find the problem.

-Check the Fuse Box First

The fuse box is under the driver-side dash (pull the trim panel off) and also in the engine compartment. Find the turn signal fuse, your owner’s manual tells you which one. Pull it out and look at the wire inside. If it’s broken or completely black, the fuse is blown.

Replace it with a new fuse of the same amperage (should be labeled on the plastic, usually 15A). Cost: $1-3. If you replace it and it blows again immediately, there’s a short circuit somewhere and you need a mechanic.

-Inspect the Bulb and Socket

Remove the bulb from the problem side. Look at the filament inside, is it broken or blackened? If yes, replace it. If the filament is fine, the problem is electrical, not the bulb.

Now check the socket where the bulb sits. Twist it counterclockwise about half a turn and pull it out. Look for white/green crusty deposits (corrosion) or water pooling. If it’s corroded, cleaning it with electrical contact spray might fix it, but socket replacement ($20-40) is more reliable.

-Test Wiring and Ground Connection (If Bulb/Socket Are Fine)

If the bulb is good and the socket looks clean, you’ve got a wiring or grounding issue. This is where diagnosis gets harder. Look at the wiring near the socket, any cracks in the insulation or burned-looking connectors? For rear signals especially, check where the wiring enters the trunk. That hinge flexes every time you open the trunk, and wires can crack there.

If wiring is damaged, you need a mechanic to diagnose and repair. Cost: $100-300+ depending on severity. If you don’t see obvious damage, have a shop run a quick diagnostic ($50-100).

Hyperflashing (Double-Speed Blinking Explained)

Let’s dig into why hyperflashing happens so you understand the fix. The turn signal relay is calibrated for a specific electrical load (resistance). When the load drops because a bulb is burned out, the socket is loose, or you installed the wrong bulb type. The relay thinks the circuit is broken and speeds up its flash rate to warn you.

This is actually clever engineering, but it’s also why one wrong bulb type can make everything act broken.

-Why Incorrect Bulb Type Causes Hyperflashing

A 1157A bulb and a 2357A bulb have different resistance ratings. Your relay is calibrated for 2357A. Install 1157A and the circuit looks “wrong” to the relay, triggering hyperflashing. This is especially common because both bulbs physically fit. They look the same from the outside, but electrically, they’re not compatible.

The fix: remove the wrong bulb and install 2357A. Hyperflashing stops immediately. Cost: $3-5 more per bulb. This is one of the most-missed fixes in forums.

-Isolate the Problem Side

Activate your left turn signal. Does it blink fast? Then activate the right. If only one side hyperflashes, the problem is isolated to that side (bulb or socket on that side). If both sides do it, the relay or a main ground connection is likely the issue.

One-side hyperflashing usually means: burned bulb (most common), wrong bulb type, or corroded socket on that side. Both-side hyperflashing means: bad flasher relay, or poor ground from the relay itself.

-Ground Connection Test (If Contacts Are Clean)

If you’ve cleaned the contacts and replaced the bulb but still get hyperflashing on one side, check the ground connection. The ground pin in the socket connector should be clean and snug. If it’s corroded or loose, you’ve got low ground resistance, which confuses the relay.

Clean the ground pin with electrical cleaner. If it’s still loose, the connector might need replacing ($20-40). For front signals, this ground connection is critical because of how the marker light circuit shares the same ground.

Intermittent Turn Signals (Works Then Stops)

Your signal works for a few days, then stops, then works again randomly. This is almost always a loose or corroded connection that only conducts electricity sometimes. The fix is easier than a complete failure because you know the circuit can work, something just keeps interrupting it.

Intermittency is 80% a socket or bulb contact issue, 15% water damage in the housing, 5% wiring breaks.

-Reseat and Inspect the Socket

Remove the bulb and look at the socket. The metal tabs inside should grip the bulb firmly. If they’re bent inward or the bulb spins freely instead of clicking, the tabs are damaged and the socket needs replacing.

Try reseating the bulb first: insert it, twist firmly until you feel it click, then test. If it works for a while then stops again, the socket tabs are too worn to hold contact. Replace the socket ($20-40, 15 minutes).

-Check for Water and Corrosion

Rear signals get the worst of this because the trunk area isn’t sealed as tightly as the front. Open your trunk and look at the taillight assembly. Is there water pooling inside the housing? That’s your problem.

If water is present, remove the entire taillight assembly (usually 2-3 bolts), drain it, and let it dry. Clean any corrosion with electrical cleaner. Reassemble and test. If the problem comes back, the seal is compromised and you need a new taillight assembly ($100-200 at a shop).

-Diagnose: Mechanical vs. Electrical

Is the bulb lighting up at all when you activate the signal, or does it not light up at all? If it lights (even dimly) then cuts out, it’s mechanical, a loose connection. If it never lights, it’s electrical power isn’t reaching it consistently.

Mechanical = cheap fix (socket, contact cleaning, or bulb). Electrical = might need shop diagnostics to track down where power is dropping. Tell a mechanic “it works sometimes but not reliably” and they’ll test continuity for you ($50-100 diagnostic fee).

Dim or Flickering Turn Signals (Weak Light Output)

Your signal lights up but it’s barely visible, or it flickers instead of glowing steady/flashing. Dim light means power delivery is weak. Flickering means the contact is unstable.

The fix is almost always cleaning contacts or replacing a corroded socket. This usually costs $0-30 and takes 10-15 minutes.

-Clean the Bulb and Socket Contacts

Remove the bulb. Look at the metal contacts, they should be shiny. If they’re dull, dark, or have crusty deposits, grab electrical contact cleaner and clean both the bulb base and the socket interior.

Reseat the bulb and test. Dim light that just got bright? Corrosion was the problem. Cost: $0 if you have a rag, $5-10 if you need cleaner spray.

-Bulb Age vs. Contact Quality

An old bulb loses brightness before it burns out completely. If contacts are clean but the signal is still dim, the bulb filament is dying. Replace it ($5-10). If the new bulb is also dim immediately, contacts are still the culprit. They might need aggressive cleaning or the socket needs replacing.

-Ground Connection and Voltage Drop

Poor ground = weak power delivery = dimmer light. The signal circuit needs a complete loop: battery → bulb → ground back to battery. If the ground connection is loose or corroded, voltage drops before it reaches the bulb.

If contacts are clean and bulb is new but signal is still dim, test ground connection at the socket. Should be shiny, not discolored. If it’s crusty, clean it or replace the socket ($20-40).

Front Turn Signal Not Working (One Side Only)

Your front left (or right) doesn’t work, but the rear signal on that same side works fine. This is actually a specific problem on the 2013 Elantra because the front lights have a quirk.

The 2013 design puts the turn signal and marker light in the same bulb and socket. When your headlights are on, the marker light gets power priority, and there’s no ground path left for the turn signal. This is why your front signal works with lights off but dies the moment you turn on headlights.

The fix: clean the bulb holder contacts or replace the socket. This restores the ground path and lets both circuits work at the same time.

-Access the Front Socket (The Annoying Part)

The front turn signal bulb is inside the headlight assembly, accessed from behind (inside the engine bay). In theory, you can reach in and turn the socket counterclockwise half a turn to remove it without removing the whole headlight.

If you’ve got small hands and patience, try the reach-around. If your hands don’t fit or the socket won’t budge, the headlight assembly needs removal. This requires 2-3 bolts and wheel well access, doable in 30 minutes if you’re handy, but many people take it to a shop ($100-200 labor).

-Marker Light and Ground Interaction

Here’s why front and rear behave differently on the 2013 Elantra. The front side marker light shares the same bulb socket as the turn signal. When headlights on, marker circuit is powered. If the ground connection is weak, power flows to the marker, leaving no ground for the turn signal.

Clean the ground pin in the socket connector. It should be shiny and click in firmly. If it’s loose or corroded, that’s your problem. Cleaning it ($0) or replacing the socket ($20-40) fixes it.

-Test Ground Continuity (If Cleaning Didn’t Work)

If cleaning didn’t restore the signal, check if the ground is actually connected. Use a multimeter (if you have one) to test continuity from the socket ground pin to the vehicle chassis. Should read zero ohms (complete circuit).

If you see resistance, the connector is corroded or the wiring is broken. Shop diagnosis ($50-100) or socket replacement ($20-40) usually fixes it.

Rear Turn Signal Not Working

Rear failures are usually easier than front failures because rear signals are simpler, less shared circuitry. A rear signal not working is 70% a burned bulb, socket corrosion, or loose connection. 20% water damage in the housing. 10% wiring breaks at the trunk hinge.

Test the bulb first. If it’s good, check the socket. If that’s fine, look for water in the housing.

-Remove the Taillight Assembly and Inspect

Pop the trunk. Find the three bolts holding the taillight assembly (10mm socket). Remove them. Gently pull the assembly away from the car. Disconnect the wiring harness (there’s a release tab).

Now you can access the bulb socket from the rear. Remove it by turning counterclockwise half a turn. Is the bulb burned out? Socket corroded? Is there water inside the housing? These tell you the problem. Cost to inspect: free, 5 minutes.

-Water Damage at the Trunk Hinge

If you see water pooling in the taillight housing, the seal is compromised. The trunk hinge is the most common leak point. Every time you open and close the trunk, the hinge flexes, and wiring at that hinge gets stressed.

Drain the housing and let it dry completely (leave the assembly off for a few hours). Clean any corrosion with electrical contact spray. If you can find the source of the leak (cracked wiring insulation near the hinge), wrap it with electrical tape ($0-5). Reassemble and test.

If water returns, a new taillight assembly seal is needed ($100-200 at a shop).

-Check Wiring at the Harness Connector

If the bulb is good, socket is clean, and there’s no water, the problem is wiring or connection. Look at where the wiring harness connects to the taillight assembly. Any corrosion on the connector pins? Any burned-looking spots?

Clean corroded pins with electrical cleaner. If insulation is cracked, wrap it with electrical tape. If the problem persists, you need a mechanic to test continuity and trace the break ($50-100 diagnostic).

Turn Signal Stuck On (Won’t Turn Off)

This is rare but distinctive. You activate the turn signal and it stays on the dashboard arrow stays lit, the bulb doesn’t stop glowing. This is a switch problem, not a bulb/socket/wiring problem.

The multifunction stalk (the lever on your steering column) has a spring that returns it to center when you release. If that spring breaks or the connector binds, it stays activated. This needs a mechanic.

-Confirm It’s the Stalk, Not the Bulb

Physically move the stalk up and down. Does it feel stiff or stuck? Does it slowly return to center or stay where you left it? Stiff = mechanical binding. Won’t return = broken spring.

If the stalk feels normal but the signal won’t deactivate, the electrical connector might be binding (less common). Either way, this is a switch issue.

-Dashboard Indicator Stays Solid (Key Symptom)

When the stalk is stuck activated, the relay sends constant power instead of cycling power. This means the dashboard arrow light stays solid instead of flashing. If your dashboard light stays on continuously (not blinking), it confirms the stalk is stuck.

This is a safety issue you need it fixed. Your signal is advertising a turn all the time, confusing other drivers.

-When to Replace vs. Repair

Multifunction switches rarely repair successfully. The stalk mechanism is complex, and if it’s broken, replacement is cleaner than trying to fix it. Cost: $150-300 for the switch + $100-200 labor. If it’s still under warranty, the dealer handles it free.

This is a shop job. Don’t attempt it yourself unless you’re very comfortable with steering column trim removal and electrical connectors.

DIY vs. Professional Mechanic (Decision Framework)

Here’s the real breakdown: when should you DIY, and when should you call a pro?

The real rule: If you can access it without removing major components, DIY is worth trying. If you need to remove the headlight assembly or dig into the steering column, let a shop do it.

Cost-conscious move: replace the bulb yourself ($5-10, 5 minutes). If that doesn’t work, replace the socket yourself ($20-40, 30 minutes). If that doesn’t work, call a mechanic with a specific symptom (“I’ve replaced bulb and socket, signal still doesn’t work”). They’ll diagnose faster because you’ve ruled out the easy stuff.

❓ Common Questions

Can you drive with a broken turn signal?

Legally, no. Most jurisdictions require functioning signals. You’ll get a fix-it ticket ($50-200) and risk liability in an accident.

How much does it cost to fix?

DIY: $5-40 depending on problem (bulb, socket, or relay). Shop: $50-200 for parts + labor. Harness damage: $200-500.

How long does replacement take?

Rear bulb: 10 minutes. Front bulb: 15-30 minutes (tight access). Socket replacement: 20-40 minutes. Professional diagnostics: 30 minutes-1 hour.

What causes rapid blinking?

Burned bulb (most common), wrong bulb type (1157A instead of 2357A), corroded socket contacts, or bad flasher relay.

Is it safe to DIY?

Bulb and socket replacement are safe. Don’t attempt wiring work or switch removal unless experienced.

Why do front signals fail when headlights are on (2013 Elantra)?

The front marker light and turn signal share the same bulb. When headlights are on, the marker circuit draws power priority, leaving no ground for the turn signal.

Can a bad ground cause problems?

Yes. Poor ground = weak power delivery, causing hyperflashing, dimness, or intermittent operation.

What’s the difference between 1157A and 2357A?

Different resistance ratings. 2013 Elantra requires 2357A. Installing 1157A causes hyperflashing and electrical confusion.

How do you test a relay?

Listen for clicking under the dash when you activate the signal. No click = bad relay (cost $20-40 to replace).

Why is my signal intermittent?

Loose or corroded socket, water damage in the housing, or loose wiring (especially at trunk hinge for rear signals).

Can I replace a signal myself?

Yes. Bulb: 5 minutes. Socket: 15-30 minutes. Wiring: no (needs a mechanic).

What does fast dashboard blinking mean?

Hyperflashing indicator, your relay is telling you the circuit load is wrong (burned bulb or wrong bulb type).

How long do signal bulbs last?

2,000-10,000 hours depending on quality. Roughly 1-3 years for average driving.

What should I do first if my signal stops?

Check the bulb (5 minutes). If it’s burned, replace it ($8). If bulb is good, check the socket for corrosion ($0-40 to fix). If that doesn’t work, call a mechanic.

Is turn signal a safety feature?

Yes. Required by law. Failure risks accidents and traffic citations.

Final Checklist: Know When It’s Time for a Shop

Call a mechanic if:

• You’ve replaced the bulb and socket, and the signal still doesn’t work
• The front signal won’t work but you can’t access the socket without removing the headlight
• You see water pooling in the taillight housing and the leak source isn’t obvious
• The multifunction stalk is stuck or feels broken
• The wiring is visibly damaged (cracked insulation, burned connectors)
• You don’t have the tools or patience for removal (no shame; some jobs are worth paying for)

Call a diagnostic ($50-100) if:

• You’ve tested bulb, fuse, and socket but still have no signal
• You suspect a ground or wiring issue but can’t visually confirm
• The problem is intermittent and you can’t isolate which side or component

Most 2013 Elantra turn signal problems are under $30 and 30 minutes. The few that aren’t usually involve water damage or switch failure. Good news: you’ve got this if it’s the first category. Bad news: if it’s water damage, you need a shop.